I challenged Marta Ferreira, from the Blog The skin I live, writing with me articles on the Hair Schedule and the Curly Girl Method analyzed in the eyes of science, in a series of 4 publications.

The first article in this series can find here, the second here, the third here it's the room here..

The Curly Girl Method

This method was created by an English hairdresser named Lorraine Massey more than 15 years ago in order to help everyone who didn't know how to deal with curly hair. This hairdresser started by realizing that all hair was treated equally in the profession and decided to try it on her clients some of the methods mentioned in the book, such as discouraging the use of shampoo, not using products with silicones, not using hair brushes, avoiding stretching with heat sources, not cutting curly hair while wet, using hair gel, etc. The objective of this method is to take better care of naturally wavy / curly hair, minimizing external damage by products and utensils and accentuating the potential of its natural curvature.

We reiterate that this publication is not intended to denigrate the Curly Girl method, let alone its practitioners. However, we think it is important to inform people who practice this method about the principles that make sense, and to distinguish them from less rigorous or unfounded statements.

Throughout this publication we will analyze all the premises of this method, classifying its basis according to scientific evidence, using the colors of the traffic light, and explaining why this assessment is made.

Why is wavy and curly hair different from straight hair?

In wavy and curly hair, the hair follicle is not perpendicular to the scalp, but oblique. In addition, the hair is like "flattened". This allows the capillary rod to form more or less tight “spirals” throughout its growth, which form from the wavy to the curls.

For these reasons, too, in curly hair, sebum does not “run” so easily, which makes its length and tips drier, sensitive to damage and also tangling.

Snails can be classified as follows:

It is normal to have different classifications on the same hair. This classification may be important, for example, when choosing some products!

Choice of products in the Curly Girl method

According to the author, the choice of hair care products follows the following rules:

• Shampoos are not used to wash hair, but conditioners without silicones or other cleansing products, without any type of foam, such as co-wash.

⬤ This recommendation is based on how traditional shampoos work. These products contain combinations of surfactants capable of effectively removing oil from the scalp, serving essentially this purpose, but also hair. In dry hair, as is the case with curly hair, this effect can aggravate the issue. One way to minimize this problem will be to use only the shampoo on the head, and to make sure that the hair is washed only with the water that drips.

⬤ Conditioners and co-wash products can be used to wash hair, but will be insufficient unless the scalp is extremely dry, or the accumulation of conditioner and styling products is minimal. On the other hand, in people with oily scalp or seborrheic dermatitis, the hair can become “heavy” when the scalp is cleaned with only these products, so it is important to alternate a conditioner / co-wash with a shampoo (1).

• Ingredients classified as “drying” are not used

• • • • Sulfates

(…) SULFATE (…) SULFONATE (…) SARCOSINATE (…) SULFOACETATE

⬤ The letters in red mean that these words were poorly selected to name the ingredients that are part of this category. Sarcosinates have no sulfur, so they could never be sulfates. The rest of the terminations correspond to sulfur molecules, like the keratin that we like so much, but that like it cannot be considered sulfates. On the other hand, sodium coco-sulphate, widely used in brands with a “natural” positioning, is made up mostly of sodium lauryl sulfate, so it will have a comparable washing action.

⬤ More important than all this, is the notion that what makes a product "good" or "bad" is not due to the presence of one or the other ingredient, but rather to the composition of the formulation as a whole, the amount of shampoo used for washing, and even the characteristics of the hair itself! If a shampoo contains sulfates, but if they are present in a reduced concentration or if the product also contains several oils, non-ionic surfactants or even some silicones; this product is likely to have a mild washing action (2). And in fact, we will only know this by experimenting!

⬤ As we saw in the previous publication, sulfate shampoos can be just as or more delipidating (“drying”) than sulfate-free shampoos, depending on the concentration in which they are found and the other ingredients of the formulation (2). But the author has recently stated that no shampoo can be used, even if it is a sulfate-free shampoo. If the question is about sulfates, which is not necessarily true, why are sulfate-free shampoos prohibited?

Let's take examples!

We will analyze 2 different shampoos, with the ingredients highlighted below blue they are the tensioativos, ingredients for cleaning, and the ingredients in color orange are emollients or conditioners:

Kérastase Discipline Oil-Relax Bain Shampoo

AQUA / WATER, SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, COCO-BETAINE, LAURETH-5 CARBOXYLIC ACID, COCAMIDE MIPA, AMODIMETHICONE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, PPG-5-CETETH-20, SODIUM BENZOATE, BENZOPHENONE-4, PEG-55, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, BENZYL SALICYLATE, BENZYL ALCOHOL, CITRONELLOL, LINALOOL, METHLY COCOATE, GERANIOL, SODIUM COCOATE, SHOREA ROBUSTA BUTTER / SHOREA ROBUSTA SEED BUTTER, CI14700 / RED 4, CITRIC ACID, PARFUM / FRAGRANCE.

This product contains sodium lauryl ether sulfate, an anionic surfactant with a high detergent action, in addition to 4 softer surfactants. Theoretically it would be a product of intense washing action, correct? But it's not true. This shampoo makes a very fine foam and not very abundant, and does not leave the hair slippery after rinsing. This may be due to the reduced concentration of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, which although being the most concentrated surfactant may be present in a lower concentration than usual, and / or the interaction of this ingredient with the rest of the surfactants, as well as the silicones , conditioners and vegetable butter that is in reduced concentration, but has anti-foam action. Regardless of the reason, this shampoo for dry hair and the tendency to develop static electricity is very ineffective for removing hair residues, even containing sulfate as the 2nd most concentrated ingredient.

Now let's look at a shampoo approved by the Curly Girl method, according to the website curlsbot.com:

Skala Expert Vegan Mayonnaise Shampoo Nutrition and Shine

Aqua, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Styrene (and) Acrylates Copolymer, Parfum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PEG-90M, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract, Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, CI 19.140, CI 15.985.

In this shampoo we can find several different types of surfactants, although none of them is actually a sulfate. Even so, this product generates a considerable foam, and if used too often it can leave your hair dry, increasing frizz. This may be related to the total concentration of surfactants, which is likely to be high, but also to the lack of emollient ingredients capable of reducing foaming. In fact, there are ingredients such as sodium lauryl ether sulfosucinate which, despite having a mild detergent action, are capable of forming a lot of foam. Thus, the washing action of the product and its potential to dry the hair is not due solely to the surfactants used, but rather to the concentration in which they are found, which we never know, as well as to the fact that there are or not emollients and other ingredients with antifoam action that hinder the formation of micelles by the product. The ultimate test of the effectiveness and smoothness of a shampoo, more effective than looking at the label or observing its foaming ability, is even its prolonged use, without any other routine products being altered, and subsequent observation of the hair condition.

To finish, let's go to a third example:

Vitay Shampoo Novex My Curls

AQUA, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE, COCAMIDE DEA, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, GLYCERIN, LAURYL GLUCOSIDE, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM, CHLORIDE, PEG/PPG-120/10 TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIOLEATE, LAURETH-2, PARFUM, GLYCOL DISTEARATE, BENZYL ALCOHOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, COCO-GLUCOSIDE, POTASSIUM CHLORIDE, DISODIUM EDTA, HEXYL CINNAMAL, CHLORPHENESIN, SODIUM BENZOATE, BHT, GLYCERYL STEARATE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, HYDROXYCITRONELLAL, LINALOOL, D-LIMONENE, CITRIC ACID, BENZOIC ACID, HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED CORN PROTEIN, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, LINUM USITATISSIMUM SEED OIL, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL, Melia Azadirachta, ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL, MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT.

Here we have a shampoo whose main surfactant is the same as the previous product. However, this product not only makes less foam, it can even leave a “residue” feeling on the hair. This may be due to the combination of less effective surfactants with various vegetable oils and butters, which, although present in low concentrations, their sum may leave residue on the hair.

• • • • Drying Alcohols

(…) PROPYL (…) PROP (…) ETH (…) DENATURED

⬤ None of these names is used to name alcohol, which can be chemically distinguished by the suffix "-ol" or the word "alcohol". The alcohols that could fall into this category will be the alcohol denat/sd alcohol/ethanol it's the isopropyl alcohol.

⬤ These alcohols are found in greater quantities in products used to fix the hairstyle; they can also be found in other products, almost at the end of the list of ingredients. In that case, these alcohols can be used to dissolve water-insoluble ingredients, or to adjust the viscosity of the product. In either scenario, and since the alcohols in question evaporate quickly after applying the products, their negative effect on the hair is dubious. We were unable to find scientific literature in this regard.

• No ingredients are used that can cause hair to accumulate

(…) CONE (…) CONOL (…) DIMETHICON (…) XANE (…) ALKANE/ALCANO (…) CERA/CIRE (…) WAX, PETROLATUM, MINERAL OIL

⬤ In the case of ingredients that leave residue, it is true that those previously listed, can have this effect, although this does not always happen. This will depend once again on the concentration at which that ingredient is found and on the characteristics of the rest of the formulation. And if on the one hand this residue may even be desirable, since it is responsible for the conditioning effectiveness of these products during their application and after rinsing, the degree of residue that remains in the hair will depend a lot on the formulation in question. It should be noted that vegetable oils, especially less fluid ones like coconut oil and shea butter, also leave residue on the hair. Therefore, this is not a unique characteristic of the oils indicated by the method.

⬤ As we saw in the first publication of this series, fluid (insoluble) silicones such as dimethicone can leave residue on the hair, and the amount of residue deposited will depend not only on the type of silicone, but also on the concentration in which it is found and the rest formulation. In addition, there are silicones other than these, which are soluble in water and can also leave hair with some residue, since that is its function. Once again, these ingredients are present in the products to facilitate styling, reduce the frizz or make hair smoother; so the product that contains them should be chosen according to the condition of the hair shaft, adapting the amount of product applied and the products used in washing to the condition of the hair.

• Parabens and phthalates are not used:

⬤ Regarding parabens and phthalates (rarely used in hair care products) allowed in cosmetic products, only those that are safe can be used. That is to say, those that European legislation allows, because after many years and safety assessment tests have proven to be safe! No harmful ingredients can be used in products that are registered in Europe (3-6). Ironically, the increasing use of preservatives alternative to parabens, such as isothiazolinones, has caused an increase in cases of allergic contact dermatitis (7).

• The Curly Girl method defines other restrictions related to hairstyle:

• • • • You cannot use hot utensils other than a dryer with a diffuser with low / medium temperature / speed.

⬤ Heat is effectively a promoter of capillary damage, so this recommendation will be useful. However, today it is known that leaving hair wet for long periods is equally harmful, as it affects the capillary cortex! In this sense, the dryer should be preferred when the hair takes several hours to dry naturally. (8).

• • • • Vinegar washing is used to remove accumulation of residues

⬤ Vinegar has a very mild surfactant action, so in addition to not satisfactorily removing product residues and scalp oil, it will leave your hair with an unpleasant odor. Vinegar has been shown to be effective against gram negative bacteria, however, it is not possible to know the final pH of the dilution of home recipes unless it is measured (it is known to be around pH 3.1 to 5) by that if it is too acidic for the hair, it can be irritating to the eyes, mucous membranes and skin that may already be inflamed. Excessive use of vinegar washing on chemically processed / damaged hair can also increase its fragility. (9)

• • • • Do not comb your hair - part your hair and interrupt the natural formation of curls

⬤ The act of combing can effectively break the hair, especially when it is wet, but it is not feasible not to do it at all because curly hair tends to be more embarrassing. The best way to do this, to avoid breakage, will be with it wet (never with dry hair) and when using the conditioner or mask, thus reducing the force used to untangle it. Regarding the formation of curls, just wet the hair to form them again. The chemical bonds that are formed when combing the hair are easily reversed, unless high pH products (approximately 13) are used or containing reducing substances, as in the case of straightening or permanent.

• • • • The hair should be "kneaded" when drying, using an unrinsed product for styling.

⬤ This technique is effective in promoting snail formation.

• • • • Normal towels - you can only use microfiber and cotton for frizz.

⬤ Some materials can effectively promote the formation of static electricity, so this may be a useful recommendation. Fortunately, most towels are made of these materials, and not all alternative materials will necessarily have the ability to create static electricity.

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Recently, the author of this method gave a interview where it states the following:

“Almost everyone who starts with the Curly Girl Method knows that silicones are on the“ black list ”. However, Massey says that silicones can sometimes be hidden in the list of ingredients, especially within vague terms like “fragrance”: “If you notice that the fragrance of the product is too strong and / or that it remains for a long time after being rinsed, it is not a good sign. Avoid using products that leave a plastic-like smell on your hair. Usually, the stronger the perfume, the more hidden chemical components it can have. If you notice that your hair is too shiny, weighs easily, or leaves a slippery sensation in your hand that does not disappear easily, it is definitely a sign that there is a silicone present ”. "Try this", the author continues: “Add water to any product you are using. If they mix well and no foreign residue is left, it's good. If separation occurs and they are not miscible, most of the time, the product is not soluble in water ”.

⬤ Not all silicones have an odor. They are very different materials. So the amount of perfume has nothing to do with the concentration of silicones, but with a much more important aspect: Most consumers like perfumed products!

⬤ Even if these fragrances contain various compounds, as in plant extracts, it would be unwise to "hide" silicones or other ingredients under the "cover" of an ingredient that can only be used up to 1% or less;

⬤ Everything around us is composed of chemicals. Chemists are part of all matter. In addition, synthetic substances are no worse than natural ones. In fact, many of the biggest poisons that exist are really natural;

⬤ Any oil, vegetable, mineral, leaves a slippery sensation in the hand. In the case of silicones, this is not always true! In fact, many silicones even have a dry touch, and are irreplaceable in the formulation of make-up products for oily skin. Therefore, this measurement method has no basis;

⬤ Any hair mask or hair cream with a high concentration of butters or vegetable oils will also be insoluble in water. Once again, the proposed method is not substantiated at all.

Let's go to more examples! Here we have two styling creams, indicated for curly hair, and in which the ingredients conditioners:

Cantu Moisturising Curl Activator Cream

AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, PROPANEDIOL, BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE, STEARYL ALCOHOL, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER, POLYQUATERNIUM-11, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), CETYL ALCOHOL, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, PHENOXYETHANOL, POLYSORBATE, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYABEAN) OIL, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SILK AMINO ACID, CANOLA OIL, ALOE BARBADENSIS (ALOE VERA) LEAF JUICE, HYDROLYZED SILK, LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM FLOWER EXTRACT, MACROCYSTIS PYRIFERA EXTRACT, SALVIA OFFICINALIS (SAGE) LEAF EXTRACT, VITIS VINIFERA (RED GRAPE) SEED EXTRACT, URTICA DIOICA (NETTLE) EXTRACT, COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) FRUIT EXTRACT, PERSEA FREEIMA (AVOCADO) OIL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL, MANGIFERA INDICA (MANGO) SEED BUTTER, ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL, MELIA AZADIRACHTA (NEEM) SEED OIL, DAUCUS CAROTA SATIVA SEED OIL, MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL, MANGIFERA INDICA (MANGO) SEED OIL, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL, BENZYL BENZOATE, COUMARIN, HEXYL CINNAMAL.

Fructis Hydra Snails Definition Cream

AQUA/WATER, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, AMINOPROPYL TRIETHOXYSILANE, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, CETYL ESTERS, NIACINAMIDE, LACTIC ACID, SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM EXTRACT/SUGAR CANE EXTRACT, HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM, LEMON PROTEIN, PHENOXYETHANOL, BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, TRIDECETH-6, LIMONENE, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, LINALOOL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, AMODIMETHICONE, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, ISOEUGENOL, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, PYRUS MALUS FRUIT EXTRACT/APPLE FRUIT EXTRACT, PYRIDOXINE HCI, GERANIOL, CITRONELLOL, CITRIC ACID, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, CITRAL, CITRUS LIMON PEEL EXTRACT/LEMON PEEL EXTRACT, COUMARIN, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, PHYLLOSTACHYS BAMBUSOIDES EXTRACT.

Both products are intended to be applied to the hair, without rinsing, to comb, detangle and define curls. In the first case, we have a formulation containing a high concentration of emollient ingredients, and without any silicone. The second product, on the other hand, contains a third silicone in the list of ingredients, Filloxane, alongside other emollients, but in lesser quantities. It turns out that despite the silicone content of the Fructis product, in fact the Cantu product leaves the hair much heavier, oily; making it difficult to define curls in hair classified as 3B or lower (see table above). This is because in addition to silicones there are many other ingredients that leave residues in the hair, and of which vegetable oils and butters are an excellent example.

Let us look again at the author's most recent statements:

“The truth is, curly hair is naturally drier, we don’t have excess oils to remove ”, she explains. “The natural oils we have contain natural antibodies that have protected us since the beginning of time. Only in the last 50 years have natural hair oils been considered dirty, oily or disgusting. It's not dirt! Anything that doesn't move stagnates, and that's when odors and bacteria start to appear ”.

⬤ It is true that curly hair is drier;

⬤ Hair does not contain antibodies. In fact, hair has no living cells, nor immune cells, and so this statement has no basis;

⬤ Whether we like it or not, oily hair is considered unclean in our society, so it is up to each person to choose the way it presents itself to others, with full awareness of the consequences that this act can have on their personal and professional life;

⬤ Excessive capillary oil causes odors, as seen in people with oily dandruff, and promotes the growth of Malassezia fungi.

“If you have accumulation problems, then you are using the wrong products ”, she says. “Products that are not soluble in water are called occlusive agents, which physically prevent water loss. The products you use on your hair should evaporate naturally during the time between washes. The most used occlusives are petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones, such as dimethicone. ”

⬤ The accumulation of products in the hair can be caused by a wrong combination of hair products;

⬤ With the exception of alcohols that the author considers drying, some alkanes, and some silicones; most of the ingredients found in hair products do not evaporate. Of the two one: they are either rinsed, or remain in the hair. Otherwise, they would not perform their function.

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Why can the Curly Girl method work?

There are no scientific studies that have analyzed this method, either in its original version or in its variants. However, and taking into account our point-by-point appreciation, we believe that your success may be due to the following factors:

• Those who follow these methods and are registered on social networks with other followers tend to choose products more suitable for the condition of their hair. In a person with oily hair, and who also uses ranges of oily hair to care for the ends of the hair, this can make all the difference;
• It is possible that the elimination of conditioning and styling products without silicones, and which generally do not also contain other ingredients that leave deposits, may explain the success of this method for those who perform co-wash;
• The use of a combing cream, the avoidance of heat and all the rules that apply to styling are very important factors in defining curls and keeping hair free of static electricity, which alone can do all the difference in the results, even without following the method as a whole.

How can I take advantage of the Curly Girl method?

If you choose to clean your scalp using only co-wash, you will have to choose lighter conditioners and styling products, that is, with less emollients that leave residue such as vegetable oils and butters, mineral oils and silicones. You can also choose to reduce the amount of product applied. This cleaning method is not suitable for anyone with an oily scalp.

If you want to continue using a traditional shampoo, even if you do it alternately with a co-wash, you don't need to worry so much about styling products. In any case, if you have an oily scalp or you see an accumulation of products on your scalp, you may need to increase the frequency of washing your hair, or the number of times you use traditional shampoo / week.

The tips given by the author for styling curly hair are generally pertinent, and can be the big secret to the success of the results you will get!

What ingredients should I keep in mind in the future, in my purchases, if I want to follow this Method?

For shampoos:

As evidenced in the previous example, the fact that the shampoo contains sulfates or not says much about its washing action. In this sense, the search for SULFATE surfactants (usually 3 words and may contain SODIUM, AMMONIUM OR MAGNESIUM in the beginning) provides only one indication, and it does not always allow us to check if this product is suitable. In this sense, it is more pertinent to read the product label, in order to understand the type of scalp that shampoo brings the most benefits. If the shampoo contains sulfates but is intended for very dry or damaged hair, and does not indicate what type of scalp it is intended for, it will probably have a very ineffective washing action, and will leave some residue on the hair. The ultimate test, and the best way to see if the shampoo is too much or too aggressive in its washing, will be through the appreciation of the sensation it leaves on the hair.

For conditioners, masks and styling creams:

It may be beneficial to notice if the list of ingredients has a large or small amount of the mentioned ingredients that can cause accumulation in the hair: silicones, mineral and vegetable oils, butters, waxes and silicones, words that end in CONE, CONOL, DIMETHICON, XANE, ALKANE / ALCANO, WAX / CIRE, WAX, PETROLATUM, MINERAL OIL, BUTTER, OIL. This may give an indication of how much residue the product can leave on the hair, but as we have seen it cannot be taken in any way as a guarantee, since the finish of the product depends on the interaction between all these ingredients with the rest of the formulation, and not of your presence. Once again, reading the label will probably be the best tool for choosing products, as this is where we can understand what type of hair this product is suitable for. Finally, using the product allows us to check if it is intended for our hair, and eventually adjust the amounts used.

We leave here several examples of Curly Girl method routines for different snail classifications:

Wavy hair: (2A to 2C)

Washing:

This type of hair is usually not as dry as curly hair.

If it is necessary to wash the scalp every day, you can choose to mix co wash and low poo during the week and benefit from a wash with a sulfate shampoo once a month, without ingredients that can accumulate on the scalp (silicones, emollients) …). If it is not necessary to wash your hair very often, a low-poo rinse every now and then with a sulfate wash will suffice. If the scalp is oily, the use of traditional shampoo or low poo will have to be frequent.

Conditioner:

The hair should be untangled at this stage, very carefully, and always starting from the ends upwards.

Mask:

This type of hair does not need to use hair masks very often, unless it is damaged, or if these masks are more emollient and conditioning than the respective conditioners. Usually benefits from lighter hair masks, with fewer emollients.

Finishing:

If this type of hair is finished with a lot of product, it can weigh, not allowing its natural curvature to be obtained, and may even cause oiliness. They usually benefit from less viscous combing creams with less emollients. It favors the use of finishing techniques and it may be useful to use a small amount of gel on top to help fix the snail.

Curly / curly hair: (3A to 4C)

Washing:

If it is necessary to wash your scalp every day, you can choose to use co wash more often, but always alternating with low poo or traditional shampoo once in a while. You can benefit from washing with a sulfate shampoo, without ingredients that can accumulate on the scalp (silicones, emollients ...) depending on the need of the hair (every 6 weeks, for example). If the routine of this type of hair goes through a long time without being washed, it is best to always use low poo between washes and to use sulfates sporadically, to remove all possible accumulation of product that may arise with the use of finishing creams. If the scalp is oily, the use of traditional shampoo or low poo will have to be frequent.

Conditioner:

The hair should be untangled at this stage, very carefully, and always starting from the ends upwards.

Mask:

This type of hair benefits from masks more often because it is naturally drier. Curly hair usually likes heavier hair masks, with a greater number of emollients (oils, butters, etc.).

Finishing:

This type of hair usually requires a lot of product and likes the most consistent and viscous products. It benefits from more complex finishing techniques that require the cream to be well spread over all locks.

It may be useful to use gel on top to help fix the snail.

Conclusion

The Curly Girl method allows us to identify the care we should take when washing curly, drier hair, and allows us to identify some of the ingredients frequently used in these hairs that can leave residues. However, washing only with co-wash, vinegar or absolutely nothing is unaffordable for most people, and will probably be the main responsible for the formation of these residues. The advice given for drying and combing your hair is generally very pertinent. The recommendation to avoid phthalates and parabens in cosmetic products, however, has no scientific support, and directly contradicts the updated and reiterated consensus by the European Commission and the Food and Drug Administration of the United States of America, among the majority of cosmetic product regulators at the national level. worldwide.

References

1. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Pro and Contra of Cleansing Conditioners. Skin Appendage Disord. 2019;5(3):131-4.
2. Cornwell PA. A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018;40(1):16-30.
3. Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics 2018 [Available from: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Parabens.pdf.
4. Bernauer U, Chaudhry Q, Degen Gea. OPINION ON Parabens Updated request for a scientific opinion on propyl- and butylparaben 2013 [cited 2020-05-07]. Available from: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_132.pdf.
5. Bernauer U, Chaudhry Q, Degen Gea. OPINION ON PHTHALATES IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS 2007 [cited 2020-05-07]. Available from: https://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_106.pdf.
6. Phthalates 2012 [Available from: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/phth_online.pdf.
7. Sasseville D, Alfalah M, Lacroix JP. “Parabenoia” Debunked, or “Who’s Afraid of Parabens?”. Dermatitis. 2015;26(6):254-9.
8. Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011;23(4):455-62.
9. Cline, A. Uwakwe, L. McMichael, A. No Sulfates, No Parabens, and the “No-Poo” Method: A New Patient Perspective on Common Shampoo Ingredients 2018 [cited 2020-05-09] Available from: https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/155747/hair-nails/no-sulfates-no-parabens-and-no-poo-method-new-patient/page/0/2]