Oils, Waxes and Petrolates

These ingredients originated from oils have been used for decades as a cheaper option to retain hydration and nutrition in hair.

Although this information is what’s advertised to us, it does not correspond to the truth.

Mineral Oils and Waxes provide no nutrition or hydration. They serve rather to form a barrier around the hair to retain moisture that is already present, just like Silicones – giving the appearance of a bright and silky hair.

They are great to disguise the true hair’s condition.

This barrier makes it almost impossible for the hair to absorb more moisture and nutrition, which is a similar problem to the Silicones: read more here. This inevitably results in a weaker hair, less hair growth and elastic hair.

These ingredients need to be washed with Sulfates, otherwise they will build up in the hair.

What happens Chemically:

Mineral Oils ingredients are transparent, odourless, liquid and very common in cosmetics.

They are very cheap to be produced, inert, extremely stable and very good lubricants (great for detangling hair). They are not biodegradable.

These Oils are formed from Petroleum, refined, purified and then processed.

These lipids (fatty oils) will not enter the capillary fiber, but will fill the gaps on the surface of the hair, making an occlusive hydrophilic layer (doesn’t like water), thus blocking the movement of water and electrolytes in the hair.

This means, that it’s like a “disguise” for the hair, to hide all the bad things. This restores the permeability function, but does not correct the hair abnormalities that lie beneath this barrier.

Waxes are mostly commonly used to thicken formulations and are also insoluble in water.

They are widely used in various hair products in order to provide the same benefits as the Mineral Oils, but also creating a barrier that does not let nutrients in and out.

These Ingredients hate water, so it is necessary to use Sulfates in order to remove them and not having built up in the hair with repeated use. If this happens, it can lead to the existence of dandruff, oiliness, irritation/itching and dryness of the scalp.

Moisturizing Oils VS Sealing Oils

These Oils are good for your curly hair and you need to understand why:

• Moisturizing Oils – Vegetables – Oils taken from plants, can penetrate the hair fiber and nourish it. The fatty acids in these oils are much smaller, so there is better absorption of nutrients. They do not cause clogged pores allowing the passage of water and nutrients to the hair.

• Sealing Oils – Minerals – They are the Oils mentioned above so they basically just seal the hair. There is no exchange of nutrients and water. If used, you need to moisturize your hair previously.

NOT APPROVED Oils and Waxes

• era
• wax
• dodecane
• dodecene
• isododecane
• isohexad
• isohexadecane
• isohexanedecane
• lanolin
• mineral oil
• paraffin
• petrolatum
• shellac
• wax
• liquid paraffin
• paraffin oil
• ionic paraffinum
• white oil

APPROVED Oils and Waxes

• emulsifying wax
• emulsifying wax nf
• coconut oil
• jojoba oil
• olive oil
• palm oil
• babassu oil
• safflower oil
• sesame seed oil
• avocado oil
• walnut oil
• vegetable oil
• argan oil
• shea butter
• sweet almond oil
• wheat germ oil